Search

The Old King’s Head, Brockdish, restaurant review: ‘If you love great pizza this is one to add to your list’

PUBLISHED: 18:00 17 May 2017 | UPDATED: 12:38 24 May 2017

Food review: The Old King's Head, Brockdish. Excellent pizza topped with red onion, pancetta slices and coppa. 10/10

Food review: The Old King's Head, Brockdish. Excellent pizza topped with red onion, pancetta slices and coppa. 10/10

Archant

An authentic Italian taste on the Norfolk/Suffolk border.

Food review: The Old King's Head, Brockdish. A selection of earthy, salty, delicious homemade tapenades and sun dried tomato salsa. 8/10 Food review: The Old King's Head, Brockdish. A selection of earthy, salty, delicious homemade tapenades and sun dried tomato salsa. 8/10

When you walk into this pub the oaky, smoked scent of the wood-fired pizza oven swirls around you in an irresistible fug. I bet there are folk who’ve popped in for a pint but ended up staying for a bite too based on the smell alone!

MORE: The Dining Rooms, Norwich, restaurant review: ‘The new menu is heaven’

We honestly found it so hard to choose from the menus - one filled with classic pizzas, the other with specials, crafted from long-fermented dough.

After a brief chat with the owner (who recommended everything – not helpful argh!) we were set.

MORE: Alley Olé, Norwich, restaurant review: ‘For the indecisive, it’s a dream’

To start. A decent-sized plate of puffy doughballs with a soft garlic butter made green by flecks of fresh parsley. Totally gorgeous.

Food review: The Old King's Head, Brockdish. Linguine with white wine, cream, chicken, garlic and olives. Food review: The Old King's Head, Brockdish. Linguine with white wine, cream, chicken, garlic and olives.

There was also a plate of homemade tomato salsa, black olive and green olive tapenades, truffle oil and homemade bread. I loved the way the sweetness of the sundried tomatoes cut through the salty bitterness of the tapenades, each of which was creamy, pungent and earthy.

For mains there was a large bowl of linguine, bathed in a mellow sauce of cream, white wine and garlic, and filled with large chunks of chicken. Mr Jarvis hates olives but I helped him out with those! The pasta was al dente. And the sauce clung to it for dear life – just the way it should.

MORE: The Mulberry Tree, Attleborough, restaurant review: ‘I have eaten a lot of tarts in my time but this was one of the best ones I have ever had’

A humungous, thin-crisped pizza with that quintessential char-flavour, came topped with a bright, mouth-watering tomato sauce, loads of herbs, mozzarella and proper pancetta and coppa. All salty and crispy and moreish, with the ‘real’ pancetta adding a savoury herbal dimension to the whole thing.

Full? Course we were but I never say no to pudding! So we found ourselves struggling with a plate of chocolate filled mini calzone served with chocolate sauce and cream, and a delightful and massive wedge of lemon polenta cake. Polenta cake is usually a soppy wet mess of mush, so I was pleased to see this one had a good structure – perhaps because the lemon drizzle was served on the plate as a sauce, rather than drenched over the top. Freckled with candied orange and lemon it was like a slice of Capri on the Norfolk/Suffolk border.

MORE: Farmyard, Norwich, restaurant review: “I wasn’t overly convinced this contemporary bistro would be all it’s cracked up to be - I was wrong”

Food review: The Old King's Head, Brockdish. Pizza with mozzarella, tomato and fresh basil. As good as any from Italy. 10/10. Food review: The Old King's Head, Brockdish. Pizza with mozzarella, tomato and fresh basil. As good as any from Italy. 10/10.

Drink

As CAMRA’s Mid-Anglia Pub of the Year for 2017, those who like a tipple won’t be disappointed. There’s a great ale and lager selection with plenty of specials, and with local breweries Adnams, Grain and Lacons well represented. The Grain Pilsner was refreshing, light and easy drinking. If you have a penchant for gin, there’s over 140 at the bar (so maybe book a taxi).

Atmosphere/ambience

The Old King’s Head has an uncluttered idiosyncratic feel about it. Milk bottles are filled with fresh flowers at the tables. Local art fills the walls with colour. And there’s a wall of board games. We liked the unusual ‘box’ art on the way to the loos. Check it out.

MORE: The Golden Fleece, Wells-next-the-Sea, restaurant review: “More than worth the wait”

Service

Food review: The Old King's Head, Brockdish. Not too sweet, and punchy with lemon, this polenta cake was delightful. 9/10 Food review: The Old King's Head, Brockdish. Not too sweet, and punchy with lemon, this polenta cake was delightful. 9/10

The chef was really friendly and accommodating and we could tell he loves what he does and what he’s serving. Our waitress was a little cold? But that didn’t spoil our overall experience.

Price

Really reasonable. Starters came in at between £2.30 and £4.95, pizzas and pasta from £7.95 to just shy of £14 and puddings from £4.95 to £7 for an Amaretto affogato.

MORE: Lust & Liquor, Norwich, restaurant review: ‘The place itself is inviting but the experience was subpar’

Loos

Very nicely kitted out for a pub. Freshly decorated in a mauve shade, the ladies’ had a chandelier, no less! And nice hand soap and a basket of individual hand towels.

Car park

There’s plenty of parking at the back.

MORE: The Wallow, Norwich, restaurant review: ‘With cheese boards and wine machines I couldn’t have dreamt up a more perfect place’

Highlight

It’s hard to decide, but I’m going to say the pizza. It was as good as any I’ve eaten in various places in Italy. Huge, packed to the rafters with toppings, and infused with smokiness from the wood fire.

Summary

If you love great pizza this is one to add to your list. The pub takes relatively simple, high quality ingredients and turns them into something an Italian nonna would be proud of.

To see all of our food reviews click here.

Other popular content

09:51

In a move to help boost local businesses in the district and create a real Christmas Eve buzz, Waveney District Council has announced that parking will be free all day in all council-owned and managed car parks on December 24.

The romance of the rails is something that has resonated with many people over the years.

Yesterday, 16:05

Shoppers are getting into the spirit of Christmas and splashing out on a bumper haul of alcoholic beverages.

Tuesday, March 22, 2011

A momentary lapse of concentration for builder Harry Wones resulted in the most horrific of accidents.

Most Read

09:51

In a move to help boost local businesses in the district and create a real Christmas Eve buzz, Waveney District Council has announced that parking will be free all day in all council-owned and managed car parks on December 24.

Read more

The romance of the rails is something that has resonated with many people over the years.

Read more
Yesterday, 16:05

Shoppers are getting into the spirit of Christmas and splashing out on a bumper haul of alcoholic beverages.

Read more
Steve Magnall
Tuesday, March 22, 2011

A momentary lapse of concentration for builder Harry Wones resulted in the most horrific of accidents.

Read more

The officer leading the investigation into a rape in Lowestoft has expressed concern that the suspect could strike again.

Read more
Suffolk Police

Later in Life

cover

Click here to view
the Later in Life
supplement

View

Local Weather

Rain

Rain

max temp: 5°C

min temp: 1°C

Show Job Lists

Digital Edition

Image
Read the Beccles and Bungay Journal e-edition today
E-edition

Newsletter Sign Up

Sign up to receive our regular email newsletter