The new owners of The Wine Vaults in Beccles had big boots to fill as they took on their favourite bar. BRUNO BROWN went along for dinner to put their menu to the test

 

A crowd of people filled the bar of The Wine Vaults when I popped in with friends. It was nice to see the place so busy since its takeover by new owners, who've definitely fostered a warm and welcoming atmosphere.

After ordering drinks at the bar, we were guided upstairs to the large, traditional dining room, which has a charming feel - oak rafters and beams giving a strong sense of character and cosiness.

Glancing at the menu, all three of us were impressed by the extensive specials, which we were told change depending on what fresh produce the chef has access to each day.

From the specials we chose a starter of moules mariniere with Filo & Twine sourdough and skin-on fries (£8) plus a bowl of olives (£5) to share as a modest appetiser to whet our palates.

Beccles & Bungay Journal: For starter, we shared: 2x No 4 moules mariniere, filo & twine sourdough with two portions to share between the three of us served in one pot (£8) one portion of Mixed harlequin olives (£5)For starter, we shared: 2x No 4 moules mariniere, filo & twine sourdough with two portions to share between the three of us served in one pot (£8) one portion of Mixed harlequin olives (£5) (Image: Bruno Brown)

The mussels were beautifully succulent and tender, requiring hardly any effort to pull from their shells. A subtle saltiness was present, catapulting me to the beach as I closed my eyes.

What elevated the dish was the deliciously garlicky and creamy white wine sauce they arrived in. So rich in flavour. And so good we almost forgot our manners as, in an unsynchronised frenzy, the three of us jumped in with our hands mopping up every last delicious morsel.

The olives were pleasant, but nothing to sing about. In hindsight the small portion perhaps wasn’t enough for the three of us.

All three main courses that followed were exquisitely presented, with all items on their respective plates thoughtfully and professionally positioned.

We selected a diverse mix between us, with one companion ordering what we were told was the restaurant's most popular dish - Beef Wellington with boulangere potatoes, tenderstem broccoli and red wine gravy (£24).

Beccles & Bungay Journal: The waitress informed us that the beef wellington was the restaurants best selling dish at £24The waitress informed us that the beef wellington was the restaurants best selling dish at £24 (Image: Bruno Brown)

Another ordered the pork chop schnitzel with pancetta lardons, Parmesan parmentier potatoes and Swiss chard (£19).

And I opted for a dish from the specials -  mosaic skrei cod, pea and garlic risotto (£20).Beccles & Bungay Journal: From the specials menu I ordered the Mosaic skrei cod, pea and wild garlic risotto, pea shoots and dill for £20From the specials menu I ordered the Mosaic skrei cod, pea and wild garlic risotto, pea shoots and dill for £20 (Image: Bruno Brown)

The cod was fleshy and flaky, and complemented wonderfully by the rich garlic and lemon flavours of the risotto. The dish was not too big or carby and felt soft on the stomach.

On the other side of the table the schnitzel came in highly praised by my friend who has spent considerable periods of time in Austria working ski seasons. It was, he said in glowing terms, one of the best he'd ever had.

Beccles & Bungay Journal: The Pork chop schnitzel (pictured) served with pancetta lardons, parmesan Parentier potatoes, Swiss chard and mustard sauce for £19The Pork chop schnitzel (pictured) served with pancetta lardons, parmesan Parentier potatoes, Swiss chard and mustard sauce for £19 (Image: Bruno Brown)

There was equal enthusiasm for the beef, which was filling, tender and well-cooked.

With stomachs on the verge of explosion, we took a mutual decision to share a Great Anglian cheeseboard (£10) to conclude what had been a hugely pleasant and sophisticated evening of fabulous food and endearing company.

Overall the board was well balanced, but I'd recommend ordering two if there's a group of you. Book and find out more at winevaultsbeccles.co.uk

Beccles & Bungay Journal: The Great Anglican Cheese board wasn't quite as emphatic as the incredibly high bar the starter and mains had setThe Great Anglican Cheese board wasn't quite as emphatic as the incredibly high bar the starter and mains had set (Image: Bruno Brown)

Beccles & Bungay Journal: A shot of the expansive yet cosy upstairs dining roomA shot of the expansive yet cosy upstairs dining room (Image: Bruno Brown)


Disclaimer 

Our food reviews are always independent. They are the opinion of the reviewer based on their experience of the venue when they visited. The establishment is not aware of our visit, is not informed we intend to write a review and bills are paid by the reviewer. The choice of places reviewed is also independent and is not based on venues which do or do not advertise in our publications.